Down by the bay: a Boothbay Harbor travelogue
Photo by Austin Sorette
If you've traveled north of Portland, you've probably heard the same trope over and over again. Any town along the coast has the same reputation: "I would love to live here, but it's too far from everything."
When people say that, it sounds like you're trapped in this oasis. But ironically, some of the biggest draws of the town are all modes of transportation and escape. Whale-watching and puffin-spotting expeditions via Cap'n Fish's Cruises; kayak rentals from Maine Kayak Boothbay Harbor Shop; hoisting sails with the Schooner Eastwind & Applejack. Any traveler spends just as much time leaving the harbor as they do returning to it.
Boothbay shares a distinct Midcoast vibe. The small town clusters its shops and restaurants along the harbor, the Atlantic Ocean winking against the sunlight. Numerous lobster shacks and chowder houses line the water's edge, each with its own aesthetic appeal despite offering similar items on the menu. Boardwalks and winding coastal roads open up exploration on foot.
The commercial appeal of the boutiques and secondhand stores draws crowds from all over. But the abundance of bars and breweries interwoven into the storefronts makes even the most mundane shopping experience an adventure.
"You guys wanna go into the jewelry store? Yeah, I'll go! Lemme grab a beer first."
"Hey, are you guys sticking around for a while? No, that's OK, take your time! I'm gonna dip out and grab a beer while you guys finish up."
What has been so endearing about living in Maine is that it lives up to its Vacationland moniker, even if you're a taxpayer with a lobster-printed license plate on your car. I live in York County, (dis)affectionately called "Massachusetts North," depending on who you ask. I love living near sandy beaches and being equidistant to Portland and Portsmouth, N.H. But I've also washed my hair with dish soap because I couldn't stomach the bumper-to-bumper traffic just to go to the grocery store on a Tuesday evening. No one should have to do that on vacation.
Indeed, trading the traditional sandy beach vacation for the rocky shores and cooler climates of "true" Maine has become the ideal escape. Even though Boothbay is just under 90 minutes from Portland, traveling there feels like an expedition. It's impossible to resist the impulse to explore.
How can a town be too far away from everything when everything you want is right in the town itself?